Warren Harding, born June 18, 1924, and died February 27, 2002, was a major and influential figure in American climbing between the 1950s and 1970s.
Nicknamed "Batso" due to his habit of spending long days hanging from vertical walls and his iconoclastic nature, Harding is best known for leading the first team to climb the famous El Capitan granite formation in Yosemite Valley in 1958. Their route, called "The Nose," rose 880 meters and is one of the most imposing granite monoliths in the world. The 13-day ascent required meticulous preparation and remarkable tenacity, with Harding and his companions braving harsh weather conditions and working through the night to establish holds.
Born into a family originally from Iowa, Harding grew up in Downieville, California, in a historic gold rush region near Lake Tahoe. He first began hiking before turning to technical climbing in the early 1950s, finding the sport a discipline suited to him, requiring perseverance more than refined technique. He quickly became an active figure in the burgeoning Yosemite community, where big wall climbing was flourishing.
During his career, Harding made approximately 28 first ascents in Yosemite National Park, including the famous "Wall of Early Morning Light" (later renamed "The Dawn Wall"). He also contributed to the development of several specialized pieces of equipment for rock climbing, such as the bat tent and bat hooks, illustrating his inventive and sometimes offbeat approach to the sport, which he himself called B.A.T. (Basically Absurd Technology).
His influence extends beyond athletic achievement; Harding also wrote a book, "Downward Bound: A Mad! Guide to Rock Climbing," which combines tales of exploits, technical advice, and humorous anecdotes about climbing life in the 1960s and 1970s. Known for his exuberant lifestyle, fiery personality, love of fast cars, and distinctive clothing style, Harding embodies the rebellious and adventurous spirit of climbing at the time.
Despite accidents, a difficult job as a construction contractor, and a permanent disability caused by a truck accident, Harding continued to take on arduous climbing challenges. Among his achievements remains the ascent of the "Wall of the Early Morning Light" in extreme conditions, during which he and his partner spent 27 nights suspended from the face before a storm forced a rescue attempt.
Warren Harding symbolizes the golden age of climbing in Yosemite, a pioneer who pushed the physical and technical limits of his time, while imbuing his sport with a creative and passionate spirit that has inspired generations of climbers.
